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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:45 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:37 am
Posts: 1
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Just finished my rebuild with this plan - really nice! First time I screwed in the valve too far and pushed part of the puck into the small air chamber - took me awhile to get that back out cleanly. I ended up using an o-ring to seal instead of the now-destroyed puck. Seems to work fine. Just need to let the pressure out, top off the oil via the bleed screw, install the main sleeve and re-pressurize! Many thanks for this - I'll re-post actual performance once installed.

FWIW, I called the LBS to see if I could get a nitrogen fill. After 5m of questions around the shop, the guy came back and said, yeah, we don't have that at all - it's not dealer serviceable - you'll have to send it back to Fox...

Mine's a 6.5/1.5 RP23 on an Intense Spider XVP. Going to rebuild the F100RL on the front in a couple days - should be much easier. :)

Mike (new to forum)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:25 pm 
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big hucker
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Location: Dallas, TX
Welcome, Mike! Glad to hear you were able to fix that "non-serviceable" shock. ;) :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:53 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:18 am
Posts: 4
Hi all. Found this thread while Googling for info on how to service my 2007 RP23 on my Yeti AS-R SLC.

- Are the exploded diagrams, IFP depth and other data available online somewhere or could someone please send them to me? My shock is 6.5” eye-to-eye 1.5” stroke.
- Can I re-pressurise the IFP chamber without doing the Schraeder valve mod? I'm happy to do the mod if needed but I'd prefer to leave it stock if possible.
- Will I have to replace the rubber seal used to pressurise the IFP chamber? If so does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy a replacement from?
- Will Fox green 10wt oil be suitable for my shock or should I use an alternative? Maybe red with the better anti-foaming properties?

Thanks very much for an amazing thread. My LBS seems to be con-artists when it comes to suspension work so it will be much better to do it myself.

Phil


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:04 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:18 am
Posts: 4
And if I'd read the big, bold, link at the top of the first post I would have found the tech data I was after.... Sorry for the domestic blindness all.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 1:41 am 
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big hucker
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Location: Dallas, TX
Lol, no worries. And, Welcome, Phil!

Did you find everything you were after? If not, let me know. This is one modification I actually know something about. ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:48 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2014 12:43 am
Posts: 1
Hey,
Very very new to rebuilding shocks etc, so please forgive my ignorance...but, would it be feasible to simple remove the port set screw and replace with the schrader valve and re-pressurize without taking the shock apart?

I have the 2010 RP23 and cant find details on the IFP height etc!

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 2:30 am 
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big hucker
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Location: Dallas, TX
I believe my manuals only go up to 2008.

What's the eye-to-eye and travel measurement on your 2010? I can dig up the equivalent 2008 model diagram.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:08 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:18 am
Posts: 4
marpilli wrote:
Lol, no worries. And, Welcome, Phil!

Did you find everything you were after? If not, let me know. This is one modification I actually know something about. ;)


Hi Marpili,

Thanks for the welcome and for your hugely helpful posts :-)

1. Do you know if I can buy replacement IFP inflation rubber seals? The suitable vale is hard to find in Australia so it could take a while to get one and I'm keen to get my bike back on the single track.
2. Is the Fox Green 10wt oil suitable for the shock?
3. Are the photos from your RP23 rebuild guide available somewhere? I'm guessing Fox have pulled the guide from their site and killed your links.
4. If I'm inflating the IFP through the standard port is there a particular type of inflation needle I shoudl get? I've noticed there's quite a range in price and design.
5. My shock still responds well to rebound and ProPedal settings but the ProPedal switch won't stay in the middle position. It flicks from 1-3. I'm guessing the best bet is to do a full strip, clean and service while I'm in there trying to determine what's causing the issue?

Thanks again,

Phil


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:20 am 
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big hucker
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Location: Dallas, TX
1: I've read that people use o-ring cord for replacement pucks. I believe it was 7mm? I'll measure the puck next time I have it out. Buy a length of cord and then just cut off 5mm and use as a new puck.

2: I reference the PVD wiki (http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index. ... sion_Fluid) and try to find something I already have that's close in viscosity to what I need to replace. :)

3: The only photos I have of adding the IFP valve are on the first post of this thread. The official Fox RP23 rebuild guide (circa 2008) can be found at this link: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=688 <- Look for "RP23 Rebuild"

4: I've never used an inflation needle so I really can't help you there. When I was searching, it looked like the proper needle would cost me ~$30. Can't remember the exact parts list. Once I figured out I could use a shcrader valve I never looked back...

5: My RP23 only has an "on" and "off" position. There's a dial knob on it to select 1, 2, or 3. Are you sure you have an RP23? Can you post a pic?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 4:44 am 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:18 am
Posts: 4
marpilli wrote:
1: I've read that people use o-ring cord for replacement pucks. I believe it was 7mm? I'll measure the puck next time I have it out. Buy a length of cord and then just cut off 5mm and use as a new puck.


Thank you. I'll give that a try to start with and order the valve in the meantime.

marpilli wrote:
2: I reference the PVD wiki (http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index. ... sion_Fluid) and try to find something I already have that's close in viscosity to what I need to replace. :)


Do you know if Fox vary the oil viscosity for different bike brands etc? Mine is from my Yeti AS-R SLC and for now (unless others can suggest an improvement) I was thinking of putting the standard oil back in again.

marpilli wrote:
3: The only photos I have of adding the IFP valve are on the first post of this thread. The official Fox RP23 rebuild guide (circa 2008) can be found at this link: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=688 <- Look for "RP23 Rebuild"


Yeah, the photos in that link were the ones I was talking about not loading. I've had a light-bulb moment and realised they're loading off Google Drive which (like 99% of the rest of the internet) is blocked at work. I'll try again at home.

marpilli wrote:
4: I've never used an inflation needle so I really can't help you there. When I was searching, it looked like the proper needle would cost me ~$30. Can't remember the exact parts list. Once I figured out I could use a shcrader valve I never looked back...


No problem. Thanks for your help anyway. I guess having one that threads into the fitting would be beneficial given there will be ~400 PSI behind it.....

marpilli wrote:
5: My RP23 only has an "on" and "off" position. There's a dial knob on it to select 1, 2, or 3. Are you sure you have an RP23? Can you post a pic?


I'm starting to be really glad this forum in anonymous..... I've only just realised for the first time that the knob with 1, 2 and 3 on it turns independently of the lever if you pull it out..... Suspension turning 100 (I'm clearly not even up to 101 yet....).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:51 am 
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big hucker
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:32 pm
Posts: 3086
Location: Dallas, TX
Phil_LG wrote:
Do you know if Fox vary the oil viscosity for different bike brands etc? Mine is from my Yeti AS-R SLC and for now (unless others can suggest an improvement) I was thinking of putting the standard oil back in again.

The Fox oil viscosity will be the same in all Fox forks. From the PVD wiki: "025-03-008 Fox Suspension Fluid (green)32 oz bottle 10wt. 47.00 @40, 11.7@100"

Take a look at the chart (http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index. ... sion_Fluid) and find something near 47 (cSt @ 40C) avaialble in your local motorcycle shop. Or, just order from Amazon. :)


Phil_LG wrote:
Yeah, the photos in that link were the ones I was talking about not loading. I've had a light-bulb moment and realised they're loading off Google Drive which (like 99% of the rest of the internet) is blocked at work. I'll try again at home.

Ah, that makes sense. Google Drive is my choice for big photos and documents I don't want to loose. Imgur for everything else.

Phil_LG wrote:
I'm starting to be really glad this forum in anonymous..... I've only just realised for the first time that the knob with 1, 2 and 3 on it turns independently of the lever if you pull it out..... Suspension turning 100 (I'm clearly not even up to 101 yet....).

No worries. I actually don't know anything, myself. I just use the internet a lot and am (usually) not afraid to give something a try. :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:13 pm 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:43 pm
Posts: 4
Awesome info. Thanks for posting this. I just performed the mod on my RP23. Fresh oil and the correct pressure made a world of difference.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 06, 2016 7:18 pm 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:37 pm
Posts: 3
Okay...wow...I mean what a DIFFERENCE! I have been riding a RP23 for a couple of seasons now having replaced the Vanilla on my Kona Coiler (yeah I know...vintage). There had always been something "just not right" about the shock. Not having ridden a full suspension before I had nothing to compare to. I would feel a weird "clunk" sometimes taking a small hit (root or something) almost like the bike had become a hardtail for a millisecond. I could not quite put my finger on the reason. Sometimes the first part of the stroke would be pretty soft...kind of like propedal, but backwards :). Doing an air can service seemed to fix this for a while. I figured dropping $200ish for a rebuild at Push or elsewhere was going fix it, but gesh I paid less than that for the shock.

Finding the awesome collection of info here gave me the gumption to open up the real guts of the RP23. Well the first finding was there was some fluid when I released the small bit of pressure from the IFP port. Next that Guinness fluid now occupied the damping chamber. I followed the step by step and man-oh-man I now know how the shock is supposed to perform. I used Motorex 10W Racing Fork Oil which is as close to 47 (52cSt@40) with a high VI. Now the shock has a much more noticeable progression and I can not quite bottom it out running the same PSI as before. It is WICKED smooth (and silent!) on rebound as well. I also used the custom blend of gas specified in step by step. It took some work to find it, but I finally found a dealer <big><wink>.

The shock is set from the factory for medium rebound tune, 200 comp tune, low velocity tune. We'll see if I go to a lower viscosity oil after riding a bit. I have the rebound open all the way up and it might be JUST a bit slow...not sure since I have not really ridden the bike yet. I am so excited about the performance change that I could not help but write about it and say THANKS BIG HUCKER!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:10 pm 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:37 pm
Posts: 3
Wow...performing the IFP service is an incredible improvement. My shock must have been in bad shape from the time I bought it used.

The symptoms when riding was harsh on chatter and on some rare occasions it would feel as if the rear suspension locked up with a clunk for a 1/4 second...hard to notice, but definitely there. Otherwise as far as I knew the shock worked well enough on bigger stuff.

When cycling the shock I could hear a quiet sucking sound on rebound and the last inch would travel twice as fast Sometimes the shock would travel 1/4 to 1/2 inch before engaging. I had thought this was due to a dry seal or o-ring and it would go away after an air-can service. Another thing I noticed was that if I picked the rear tire of the bike up a few inches and let it drop I would get a loud SLAP sound which turns out was coming from the shock. Replacing the shock with a stick of wood bolted where the shock went proved that.

Armed with the Big Hucker Schrader valve mod I felt confident to get into the guts. A small amount of oil came out of the IFP gas port. A small sampler of Guinness came out of the oil reservoir. The floating piston was all the way at the bottom of the shock body. Well that clearly explains the behavior I saw.

I followed all the instructions including the hard to find ( :lol: ) custom blend gas mixture rather than pure nitrogen with the exception of using Motorex 10wt Racing Shock Oil which was the closest high VI fluid to 47 cSt@40 I could find (52 cSt@40). The shock is tuned for Comp=200, Rebound=M, Velocity=L. I will ride with this for a while, but rebound is almost too slow wide open.

All I can really say is "Wow. I guess I had no idea how much better the shock was supposed to be". The rebound is silent and smooth. I have a much harder time bottoming out the shock. The pro-pedal works SOOO much better. The clackety clack which I thought was mostly chain slap in the front mech is mostly gone...replaced with only real chain slap.

I had been in contact with Fox who would have retuned the shock for $85, which is not bad. BUT having the ongoing ability to do this work myself in about 30 minutes or so is for a $30 investment (valve and oil) is fantastic. THANK YOU Big Hucker!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 6:16 pm 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2016 10:56 am
Posts: 1
Hi marpilli, thanks for this great source of information! I've successfully opened my RP23 today, but I'm having some issues putting it back together. When pressurizing the IFP, the shock starts bleeding oil from the Propedal/rebound knobs. I've set the IFP depth to 48 mm for a 165 x 38 mm RP23.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:59 pm 
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lurkin' kitty

Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2016 5:52 pm
Posts: 1
Can anybody share how this worked out for them long term? I'm considering doing the mod, but am concerned that the cause of the air leak out of the positive chamber isn't yet known. In all reality, it's probably worth it either way, but I'm curious to hear from others if anybody is still monitoring this thread.

Also, @marpilli, did you end up buying the o-ring cord to make the plugs?

Seth


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:01 am 
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lurkin' kitty
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Posts: 5
Ima gonna do this mod to the RP23 I just destroyed last week.

It was stuffed before I got on the shuttle but boy did I have fun trying to total it!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:23 am 
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lurkin' kitty
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 7:28 am
Posts: 5
Did this "hack" about a month or so ago and have been giving the shock a good Rotorua thrashing to see how it works.

THANK YOU TO WHOEVER CAME UP WITH THIS!

For the first time EVER the propedal actually works and the shock feels plush and is super tunable to my riding style...(steam roller not F1 racer)

I have told a bunch of people about it and even had local bike mechanics check it out and they think its a great idea.
If I really wanted to fill the nitrogen in it then I can take it to a local tyre shop and get them to fill it...but tbh...why would I bother.

again...great mod!


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