HK

the place for sore tacos
It is currently Mon Jan 22, 2018 2:13 am

All times are UTC




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 1 post ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: F100RLC/F80RL Rebuild
PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 1:58 pm 
Offline
big hucker
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2013 7:32 pm
Posts: 3086
Location: Dallas, TX
If you directly linked to this thread, please visit our Fox Factory Service Information - Main Index for additional resources.


F100RLC/F80RLC

Note: Some photos may show a different model of fork.

Disassembly

Before starting the following procedure, open this diagram to view a graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware.

To remove the RLC Topcap:

1. With a hex key wrench, remove the hex key on top of the red rebound knob.

Note: Before removing the RLC Topcap, you must first remove the rebound knob, lockout lever, and the low-speed compression bezel. Then, remove the nut at the bottom of the fork leg, which will subsequently be disassembled.

Image

2. Remove the rebound knob by lifting it.

Image

3. Using a hex key wrench, loosen but do not remove the three set screws on top of the lockout lever.

Image

4. Lift up and remove the lockout lever. If it will not come off, you may need to loosen the set screws a bit more.

Image

5. Lift up and remove the low–speed compression bezel.

Image

6. After all the controls have been removed, you will see a ball bearing and a pin on the inside of the topcap. The pin does not need to be removed.

Image

7. Using a dental pick, remove the ball bearing. Also remove the spring that is underneath the ball bearing.

Image

8. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.

Image Image

9. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
  • After loosening the RLC Topcap assembly, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the damper, which will allow you to fully remove the RLC Damper assembly from the lower leg assembly.
  • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
  • Make sure the topcap assembly is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down to access the bottom nut. You will not want suspension fluid spilling all over your new Hush Puppies.


To remove the lockout force/bump threshold knob:

1. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, loosen—but do not remove—the bolt on the knob at the bottom of the right fork leg.

Image

2. Once the bolt is loose enough, remove the knob and set it aside.

Image


To remove the RLC Damper:

1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut.

Image

2. Screw the bottom nut back on until it is flush with the end of the adjuster rod. This is to protect the adjuster rod from damage in the next step.

Image

3. Using a plastic faced hammer, gently strike the bottom nut to release the damper assembly.

Image

4. Holding the fork over an oil pan, remove the bottom nut and crush washer. If the crush washer isn't attached to the nut, check the bottom of the lower leg; it might be stuck there. Suspension fluid should flow out.

Image

5. Making sure the fork is right-side up, remove the topcap.

Image

6. Pull up on the topcap and remove the RLC Damper assembly.

Note: The photo shown below may not match the exact product.

Image


Removing the Air Topcap:

Note: Before removing the Air Topcap, you must release the air pressure in the air spring. Caution! There is a small amount of FLOAT Fluid in the air chamber. This fluid can shoot out at high speeds when depressing the Schrader valve. Cover the Air Topcap assembly with a rag when depressing the Schrader valve.

1. Remove the aircap.

Image

2. While holding a rag over the topcap assembly, depress the Schrader valve to release air pressure.

Image

3. Unscrew—but do not remove—the damper topcap with a 26 mm 6–point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats. You may need to grind down the socket so that it properly grips the wrench flats on the topcap.

Image Image

4. Leave the topcap assembly on. Secure your fork so that the fluid inside of the fork does not spill out.
  • After loosening the Air Topcap, you are now ready to remove the bottom nut on the lower leg, which will allow you to fully remove the air spring assembly from the lower leg.
  • Place an oil pan underneath the fork before loosening the bottom nut.
  • Make sure the Air Topcap is screwed in a few turns since you will need to turn the fork upside-down for better access to the bottom nut.


To remove the 32MM Air Spring:

1. Using a 10 mm socket, remove the bottom nut. If the washer is not stuck to the bottom of the lower leg, check the inside of the bottom nut and remove it using a dental pick.

Image Image

2. Screw the bottom nut back on until it is flush with the end of the air shaft. You should be able to push down on the bottom nut to push up the air shaft plunger.

Image

3. If you cannot dislodge the damper by pushing down on the bottom nut, dislodge the air shaft by tapping on it with a soft–faced mallet.

Image

4. Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs.

Image

5. Remove the air spring from the upper tube.

Image Image


Removing the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly:

  • If the damper and spring assemblies are still in the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly, they can be removed at this point without issue. Unscrew the topcap assembly from the crown and lift up on the corresponding damper/spring assembly.
  • The upper tubes and steerer tube are pressed into the crown using a one-time press fit assembly. The crown/steerer/upper tube assembly is not a serviceable item; any deformation of this assembly requires replacement.

1. Both the damper shaft and air spring shaft should be dislodged from the lower legs, allowing you to remove the lower leg assembly. Drain the lower leg assembly into an oil pan before putting it aside.

Image

2. Clean the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly with parts cleaner.

3. Inspect the assembly for any nicks, cuts, scrapes, scratches or gouges, and replace if necessary.
  • The assemblies that normally prevent the removal of the lower legs should already have been removed.
  • Removal of the lower legs should be done with the fork secured in a bike stand, and positioned over an oil pan.


To remove the 32MM lower legs:

1. Making sure the fork is secured in a bike stand or soft–jawed vise and over an oil pan, turn the fork upside down.

2. Remove the topcap assemblies from both sides of the fork, and let the oil drain out.

Image

3. If not already done, remove all the base valve bolts and knobs.

4. Gently pull up on the lower legs, to fully disengage them from the upper tubes.

Image

5. Drain any remaining fluid from the lower legs into an oil pan.
  • After removal of the lower legs, it is a good idea to replace the dust wipers and foam rings
  • When possible, the bicycle/fork should be stored upside-down to keep the dust wipers and foam rings lubricated.


To remove the seals and dust wipers:

1. Using an open-end wrench, pry up the dust wipers. Be careful not to scratch the ID of the lower legs.

Image Image

2. After the dust wipers are removed, the foam rings will be visible. Lift them out of the lower legs. If they cannot be located, check under the dust wipers; they might be stuck underneath.

Image

You can get a general sense of the condition of the fork by examining the foam rings. Dry foam rings indicate a lack of fluids or, possibly, a leak. Dirty foam rings may indicate a faulty dust wiper. In either condition, the anodizing on the upper tubes should be examined. If the anodizing has worn off due to insufficient lubrication, replacement of the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly might be necessary.

After examining the dust wipers and foam rings, they can be discarded and replaced using the following replacement kits:
FOX 32MM Dust Wiper Kit (FOX P/N: 803-00-079)


Lower Leg Bushings:

FOX Racing Shox recommends that you have your bushings serviced at a Factory Authorized Service Center. Refer to http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/service.htm.

Bottom-out Bumpers:

  • Bottom-out bumpers are technically not a serviceable item, so they rarely need to be replaced.

Dropouts:

  • Over time the knurled surfaces of the front wheel hub and quick-release skewer wear out the dropout region of the lower leg (see Dropout photo below).
  • Inspect and measure the thickness of the dropouts every 6 months or 100 hours. Ensure that any point on the surface is above the minimum specification of 6.20 mm (see

    Measure Dropout photo below).
  • Replace the lower leg assembly if the dropout thickness is at the minimum specification or less.

    Image Dropout

    Image Measure Dropout


Service

For specific service instructions for internal assemblies, click this link to open the 2007 32 mm RL and RLC cartridge servicing procedure.


Assembly

Note: Before proceeding from this point, be sure that you have drained all oil from the damper cartridge.

To remove oil from the damper cartridge, very gently insert a small hex key (1.5 mm) into one of the ports. This action will open the spring-loaded check shim. While holding the check shim open, gently push and pull (very slowly) on the top cap several times. This subsequent action will pump the old oil out of the cartridge. Perform this operation over the oil drain pan.

CAUTION: Wear safety glasses; be careful not to squirt oil onto your shoes, or into your eyes.

Image


To install the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly into the lower leg assembly:

1. Slide a new set of dust wipers onto the upper tubes. Lubricate the upper tube with a light coat of suspension fluid to facilitate installation.

Image

2. Slide a new set of foam rings onto the upper tubes and slide them up under the dust wipers.

Image

3. Line them up so that they are about halfway up on the upper tubes.

Image

4. Slide the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly into the lower leg assembly. Do not slide the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly in all the way yet.

Image Image

5. Slowly push the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly into the lower legs. Make sure the bottom rods of the damper and spring assemblies properly protrude from the bottom of the lower legs. You might need to guide them through using a dental pick; if they are off-center they will hit the bottom-out bumper and you will not be able to push the crown/steerer/upper tube assembly all the way down.


To install the 32MM air spring:

1. Grease the threads on the upper tube.

Image

2. Drop the air spring into the upper tube.

Image Image

3. Turn the fork upside-down and pour the proper amount of FOX 7wt. suspension fluid through the hole on the bottom of the lower leg. Consult the Oil Volumes table for oil bath suspension fluid amounts as to specification, depending on your fork model.

Image

4. Push the air shaft down until it protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg. Place a new crush washer on the shaft, then screw the bottom nut onto the shaft. Or, you can place the washer on the bottom nut and screw them on together.

Image Image

5. Torque the bottom nut to 50 in/lb (5.65 N-m) using a 10 mm socket and torque wrench.

Image

6. Turn the fork right-side up and place 5cc of FLOAT Fluid (one pillow pack) into the left upper tube.

Image


To install the Air Topcap:

1. Torque the damper topcap to 165 in/lb (18.64 N-m) with a 26 mm 6-point socket. Be careful not to slip and damage the wrench flats.

Image Image

2. Remove the air topcap.

Image

3. Using a FOX High Pressure Pump, inflate the spring-side topcap Schrader valve to between 45 - 125 psi (3.10 - 8.62 bar), depending on rider weight. Consult the table below for air pressure guidelines.

Caution! Never exceed 200 psi (13.79 bar).
AIR SPRING SETTING guidelines
Rider Weight Air Pressure
< 125 lbs. 45 psi
125 - 135 lbs. 50 psi
135 - 145 lbs. 55 psi
145 - 155 lbs. 65 psi
155 - 170 lbs. 75 psi
170 - 185 lbs. 85 psi
185 - 200 lbs. 95 psi
200 - 215 lbs. 105 psi
215 - 230 lbs. 115 psi
230 - 250 lbs. 125 psi

Image

4. Screw on the air topcap.

Image


To install the RLC Damper:

1. Insert the damper assembly into the right upper tube. Make sure the adjuster shaft protrudes from the bottom of the lower leg.

Image

2. Place a new crush washer on the end of the adjuster shaft.

Image

3. Screw on the bottom nut. Using a torque wrench and 10 mm socket, torque the bottom nut to 50 in/lb (5.65 N-m).

Image

4. Turn the fork right-side up and pull up on the topcap assembly. Consult the Oil Volumes table and pour in the proper amount of FOX 7 wt. suspension fluid into the right upper tube.

Image

5. Screw the topcap assembly on and torque to 165 in/lb (18.64 N-m) using a 26 mm socket and torque wrench.

Image


To Install the RLC Topcap:

Before starting the following procedure, open this diagram to view a graphic cross-sectional overview of the RLC topcap hardware.

1. Place the spring the spring back into the detent, then place the ball bearing on top of the spring.

Image

2. Place the low-speed compression bezel onto the topcap. Align the multiple divots with the ball bearing; do not align the divots with the low-speed compression adjuster needle.

Image

3. Place the lockout lever on top of the low-speed compression bezel. Using the lever as a wrench, turn the lockout lever clockwise as far as it will go. Take the lever off, replace it and turn again until you are sure that you have turned the adjuster shaft fully clockwise. Remove the lever one more time and position it near the 6 o'clock position; this is now the locked-out position of the fork. Turning the lever counterclockwise will unlock the fork. However, note that the fork will mechanically be locked out once the lever has past the 3 o'clock position, although it is a good idea to turn the lever full counterclockwise anyway.

Image

4. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the three set screws on top of the lockout lever. Do not overtighten these set screws. Doing so will damage the lockout lever and also the low-speed compression bezel. Overtightening the screws cause the associated ball bearings to stress the surrounding aluminum surfaces, causing permanent damage. To be safe, lightly tighten the screws, then back off 1/2 turn. Turn the lockout lever and check for proper, smooth operation.

Image

5. Place the rebound knob on top of the lockout lever. The lever and adjuster shaft are indexed.

Image

6. Using a 1.3 mm (0.050") hex key wrench, tighten the hex key on top of the rebound knob.

Image


To install the lockout force/bump threshold knob:

1. Place the knob on to the adjuster shaft. Align the hex nut on the knob with the divot on the end of the adjusFdamter shaft.

Image

2. Using a 1.5 mm hex key wrench, tighten the hex nut.

Image

_________________
http://about.me/marpilli


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 1 post ] 

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
Installed by Installatron