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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 3:24 am 
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big hucker
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Location: Dallas, TX
I suspected my Disc Trucker hanger was bent after the rear derailleur self destructed and threw itself into the rear wheel. A friend of mine has a real Park Tool derailleur hangar alignment tool. But, I don't have time to pick it up from him right now and I want to make some progress on the rebuild.

Digging through my parts, I found a bin of hub innards I'd saved (axles, spacers, cones, nuts, etc.). One of the axles had the same threading as the derailleur hangar so I continued hunting... I then found a very thick steel ceiling fan extension that I had saved (to extend my breaker-bar) and drilled out the holes on one end a bit larger (25/64).


Shaft assembly...

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Put it together and grab my cheap calipers...

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Thread in the shaft until it's all the way through the hangar and then tighten down the nut on the outside of the bar...

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Viola!

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It actually worked really damn well. I was surprised at how seriously bent the hangar was. So much so that I wonder if it was bent when I got the frame.

I'll still borrow the real tool when I have time to go by his house. I'll put the axle assembly in my bike tool drawer and use it as needed. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2016 11:13 pm 
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friendly kitty
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I had to watch a video about how this works. So if your wheel is out of true, you would be screwing up the alignment, right? Or am I missing something?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 3:53 am 
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big hucker
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If you use the same spot on the wheel for all measurements (rim at the stem, for example) it doesn't matter if the wheel is out of true. By rotating the wheel any blip will remain in the same spot relative to the position of the alignment tool (if there was a blip).

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 11:27 am 
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friendly kitty
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Ahhh, I see. It just seemed weird to reference off of a non-stable item, but the multiple measurements using the same place on the wheel takes care of that.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 4:10 pm 
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timid kitty

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marpilli wrote:
If you use the same spot on the wheel for all measurements (rim at the stem, for example) it doesn't matter if the wheel is out of true. By rotating the wheel any blip will remain in the same spot relative to the position of the alignment tool (if there was a blip).


The thing to watch out for is play in the hub bearings--although I suppose if you put the same preload on it you could do the same thing you're talking about here. ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 3:45 am 
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big hucker
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Zowie wrote:
marpilli wrote:
If you use the same spot on the wheel for all measurements (rim at the stem, for example) it doesn't matter if the wheel is out of true. By rotating the wheel any blip will remain in the same spot relative to the position of the alignment tool (if there was a blip).


The thing to watch out for is play in the hub bearings--although I suppose if you put the same preload on it you could do the same thing you're talking about here. ;)

True. If you have lateral play in your wheel then that probably needs to be fixed first. ;)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 2:48 pm 
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timid kitty

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I like the efficiency of it.
It looks like the arm is re-purposed as well, being threaded and painted and all.

Neat job.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 1:49 am 
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big hucker
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Zowie wrote:
I like the efficiency of it.
It looks like the arm is re-purposed as well, being threaded and painted and all.

Neat job.

Thank you. Yes, re-purposed ceiling-fan extension. I keep it in the corner to add leverage to my breaker bar (occasional engine work).

It's tough to be accurate when measuring from a round surface, though. If I were to build one, it would be with square tubing or angle-iron to make measuring to the rim edge simple.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 2:40 am 
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lurkin' kitty
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You can buy square tubing lengths cheap at Lowe's or Home Depot.

I remember using an old wheel to straighten hangers but it's got to be a PITA compared to using the tool you made.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 3:25 am 
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big hucker
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wv_bob wrote:
You can buy square tubing lengths cheap at Lowe's or Home Depot.

I remember using an old wheel to straighten hangers but it's got to be a PITA compared to using the tool you made.

Spare wheel is a good idea, thank you. I think square tubing is definitely the way to go (much easier to take measurements).

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2016 11:51 am 
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friendly kitty
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Inspired by Marpilli, I rigged up my own hanger aligner last night with parts I had on hand to straighten a badly mangled hanger.

-1" galvanized pipe, about a 2ft length, left over from when I recently built a pull up bar for the wife (had bought 10ft length and had it cut and threaded at Home Depot for free)
- I didn't have an M10 threaded stud with the correct threading, so I used a 4" long 5/16" bolt, with 5/16" nuts to clamp the hanger, and 3/8" nuts for spacers.
-The gauge is just a couple of plastic electrical conduit clamps, a short length of 2x4, and 1/4" threaded rod.

-I drilled a 3/8" hole through the pipe on the drill press, rigged up my ghetto gauge... Viola.
I worked amazingly well.

Square tube would certainly be better, but I didn't have any.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2016 1:32 am 
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big hucker
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^^^ Nice! :)

I borrowed my friend's Park DAG 2.2 and used it this afternoon: http://www.parktool.com/product/deraill ... ge-dag-2-2

Holy shit that's one nice tool! Super easy to use and no play in it anywhere.

I used my janky one last week to align one of my kids bikes so that makes it twice I've needed an aligment tool. In my mind, that justifies me purchasing the DAG 2.2. :lol:

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